Missing
you. I just woke up after spending my second night in Africa, my first in the
bush! I got sick my first night in Nairobi at the fabulous Ngong House, and
didn't have the appetite to remain at the torch-lit, outdoor table through the
main course. The exotic fare I missed was reportedly scrumptious, fresh zebra
(pronounced zehbra by the Brits).
Africa
is magnificent. Yesterday - after flying in a single engine 10-seater prop-jet
for 45 minutes over the Great Rift Valley from Nairobi to the Masai Mara Game
Reserve - began our first day on safari. Incredible! We saw about 20 different
species of land mammals, including: elephants with calves, lions, buffaloes,
antelopes, even the elusive Serval cat.
I wake up between 4 and 6 AM every morning - I'm usually the first one up ...
you'd be shocked and delighted. The camp is a bizarre combination of rustic
outdoor life and Old World luxury. We are truly camping in tents, albeit luxurious
tents set up for us in advance, with no electricity, phone (not even cell phones)
or running water. At the same time the level of service is like a four star
hotel. Coffee, tea, or cocoa is brought to the tent at dawn; hot water for washing
and SHOWERING IN THE TENT is brought upon request. There is even a makeshift
wooden toilet inside my tent!
I have the most luxurious tent of all because, alas, I am alone. Seriously,
it's roomier than your dorm room was at Georgetown and it has a table and chair,
fluorescent battery-operated flashlight, mirror and tasteful woven rug. If it
weren't for you I'd never leave.
The
sky is glorious day and night. My camera is great and I'm so glad I bought good
binoculars and the big zoom lens for my camera. The weather's great - warm during
the day at about 80 degrees Fahrenheit with low humidity. At night and at dawn
it dips down to about 40 degrees.
I'm trying to eat healthily. I'm drinking less wine than usual and exercising
more. I'm having such a wonderful time; the only thing missing is you.
The birds are as beautiful as any other animals. Just now, (I'm at breakfast
in camp with the family), a guide spotted an exotic bird with a huge white tail,
called a Paradise FlyCatcher, what a name! Yesterday, a Superb Starling shot
across our path while we were in pursuit of some big game. The Superb Starling
is truly superb - neon blue plumage with blood red markings. The zebras are
also especially psychedelic and exquisite.
The
guides are super-knowledgeable and friendly. There are three guides for our
group of nine. Each guide works exclusively with a long-time partner-native
spotter and each guide drives and maintains his own green custom Land Cruiser.
Derek is the leader/businessman/administrator; Henry, the wry veteran from the
old days of real hunting; and Ninian, only 26 but a great spotter and passionate
naturalist - as I write this sentence Ninian is pointing out a black-faced Vervet
monkey that he's just spotted high in a tree right here in camp. All of the
guides sketch the game and the scenery and tell great stories about past safari
adventures and Kenya's colorful history.
There was a hyena stalking around camp late last night, I heard some zebras
braying near my tent around dawn, a hippo reportedly is residing in a near-by
waterway, and a regiment of baboons tromped by my tent just before breakfast.
Just another day at the office for some...
I miss you and wish you were here. I hope and trust this letter finds you and
your family well and merry in this joyous time of Christmas.