giraffeMissing you. I just woke up after spending my second night in Africa, my first in the bush! I got sick my first night in Nairobi at the fabulous Ngong House, and didn't have the appetite to remain at the torch-lit, outdoor table through the main course. The exotic fare I missed was reportedly scrumptious, fresh zebra (pronounced zehbra by the Brits).

Ngong House was gorgeous and fantastic. My brother and I slept in a Tarzan-like tree house with a balcony overlooking a pastoral Africa, fully outfitted with amenities - mosquito tents over the beds, a shower and oversized sunken tub. Next time in Nairobi you'll join me for a midnight moonlit bath, ma cherie.

I have been taking my Malaria meds, don't worry. So far, the mosquitoes (mozzies to the Brits) don't seem too bad.

elephantAfrica is magnificent. Yesterday - after flying in a single engine 10-seater prop-jet for 45 minutes over the Great Rift Valley from Nairobi to the Masai Mara Game Reserve - began our first day on safari. Incredible! We saw about 20 different species of land mammals, including: elephants with calves, lions, buffaloes, antelopes, even the elusive Serval cat.

I wake up between 4 and 6 AM every morning - I'm usually the first one up ... you'd be shocked and delighted. The camp is a bizarre combination of rustic outdoor life and Old World luxury. We are truly camping in tents, albeit luxurious tents set up for us in advance, with no electricity, phone (not even cell phones) or running water. At the same time the level of service is like a four star hotel. Coffee, tea, or cocoa is brought to the tent at dawn; hot water for washing and SHOWERING IN THE TENT is brought upon request. There is even a makeshift wooden toilet inside my tent!

I have the most luxurious tent of all because, alas, I am alone. Seriously, it's roomier than your dorm room was at Georgetown and it has a table and chair, fluorescent battery-operated flashlight, mirror and tasteful woven rug. If it weren't for you I'd never leave.

buffaloesThe sky is glorious day and night. My camera is great and I'm so glad I bought good binoculars and the big zoom lens for my camera. The weather's great - warm during the day at about 80 degrees Fahrenheit with low humidity. At night and at dawn it dips down to about 40 degrees.

I'm trying to eat healthily. I'm drinking less wine than usual and exercising more. I'm having such a wonderful time; the only thing missing is you.

The birds are as beautiful as any other animals. Just now, (I'm at breakfast in camp with the family), a guide spotted an exotic bird with a huge white tail, called a Paradise FlyCatcher, what a name! Yesterday, a Superb Starling shot across our path while we were in pursuit of some big game. The Superb Starling is truly superb - neon blue plumage with blood red markings. The zebras are also especially psychedelic and exquisite.

The guides are super-knowledgeable and friendly. There are three guides for our group of nine. Each guide works exclusively with a long-time partner-native spotter and each guide drives and maintains his own green custom Land Cruiser. Derek is the leader/businessman/administrator; Henry, the wry veteran from the old days of real hunting; and Ninian, only 26 but a great spotter and passionate naturalist - as I write this sentence Ninian is pointing out a black-faced Vervet monkey that he's just spotted high in a tree right here in camp. All of the guides sketch the game and the scenery and tell great stories about past safari adventures and Kenya's colorful history.

There was a hyena stalking around camp late last night, I heard some zebras braying near my tent around dawn, a hippo reportedly is residing in a near-by waterway, and a regiment of baboons tromped by my tent just before breakfast. Just another day at the office for some...

I miss you and wish you were here. I hope and trust this letter finds you and your family well and merry in this joyous time of Christmas.